How long has it been around?

Although Laminate Flooring has been used in Europe for over 15 years, it has only become popular in the US and Canada within the past 6 years.  Currently there are over  40 US manufacturers.

In what rooms can I install laminate flooring?

Laminate Flooring can be installed in any room inside the house, (not garages or outside porches). Special precautions should be used when installing in some areas such as bathrooms with showers or mudrooms. Laminate flooring is a very durable alternative to other flooring options but in is not indestructible and can scratch and dent if abused

How  Laminate Floor Installed

Most laminate flooring is installed as a "floating floor" meaning the floor is not adhered to the sub floor - rather it floats, and is installed over a plastic moisture barrier and a layer of foam to reduce noise and offer a stable foundation. A floating floor system is used to allow the floor to move with seasonal expansion and contraction associated with changes in temperature and humidity. The actual laminated floor is adhered together by gluing the tongue and groove edges together and finishing the perimeter of the room with wall base or quarter round.

Can I install it myself?

If you have the proper tools and instruction, it can be installed by anyone with reasonable "handyman skills". We suggest you try to install in a small area, like a closet, and get as much information as possible before tackling a larger installation.

On what types of Sub floors can I Install laminate floor

Any well-bonded, secure surface is suitable. You can even install over 1/4" carpet and some ceramic floors. As always, we recommend you consult the specific manufacturers recommendations.

What should I know about my Installation Location?

Is the room heated and at a normal temperature. How much moisture will there be in the room? I.e.: Bathroom with shower etc. How much heavy traffic will there be? Other special installation considerations are: a kitchen Island, lots of appliances, floor pipes or radiators. All of these factors make the installation more complex.

Matching transitions

Transitions, 1/4 round, wall base, stair nosing, T- molding etc. are used to finish off the installation or to transition from one room to another or from the LF to another flooring material i.e.: carpet, vinyl etc.

Are there any special tools used for installing laminate floors?

Yes, Tapping blocks, straps, a cut saw,  glue, to name a few

Humidity and Acclimation

Humidity, (moisture in the air), can and will affect any wood product including the wood core of laminate flooring In General it is recommended that the LF be acclimated to the environment where it will be installed 48 hours before installation If possible maintain a room humidity between 30% and 90% RH (relative humidity) at all times, (this is a range for any normal household environment), and 40% and 60% during and 48 hours after installation. The temperature of the room should be a minimum of 65 degrees Fahrenheit 48 hours before during and after the installation.

What are elements of an ideal installation environment/circumstances?

Floor Prep -Make sure you have a suitable sub floor well bonded and dimensionally stable, acclimate the Flooring 48 hours before the installation. Have all the necessary tools and installation recommendations videotapes, etc near by for reference. Pre - plan the layout. Do a test if possible in a small hidden area like a closet. Make all the cuts in a separate room to cut down on dust. Use the recommended tools, glue, and installation practices recommended by the Manufacturer

Caring for laminate floor?

Routine - Vacuum, use a dust mop or wipe with a damp cloth. Do not use soap-based detergents or mop and shine products as they may leave a dull film on your floor. Do not use abrasive cleaners, steel wool or scouring powder, which can scratch your floor. IF you live in a sandy area vacuum and dust mop regularly. Do not wax or polish your floor. Use a Maintenance Cleaner product. Tough spots like shoe polish, driveway sealer lipstick etc. can be removed with nail polish remover containing acetone. Use walk of mats to collect dirt and floor protectors for your furniture. liquidators.tv

Can laminate flooring be easily repaired or replaced?

Damage to your LF such as scratches and mini indentations can be repaired using Color Fill Kits, from the Mfg. When more significant damage occurs replacement of the damaged plank or square is an option. Cutting out the damaged piece with a router and special blade/tip and then re-inserting the damaged piece with a replacement piece and gluing it in place achieve replacement of the boards. It is recommended that replacement of LF be attempted on by a professional.

Laminate floors are meant to be floated over a variety of sub floors and never secured directly to any substrate

Special polyurethane underlay is laid down prior to installing laminate flooring. This helps the floor to float freely over the top.

most laminate floors require a special glue to secure the planks together and help seal moisture from penetrating the core.

straps work much better than clamps at pulling plank rows together. Normally you need a strap set for every four feet in the starter rows.

tapping blocks are used to lightly tap two planks together.

Laminate floors are incredibly durable, easy to care for and come in a wide variety of realitic stone and wood flooring designs

Laminate flooring manufacturers use sophisticated, computerized technology to create realistic designs that are well protected by a tough outer coating that is imprevious to most stains, spills, burns and extremely scratch-resistant.

For the do-it-yourself homeowner most laminate floors have a specialized, glueless, tongue and grooved locking system that makes installation a snap

Laminate floors originally came from Europe and combine realistic hardwood and tile designs with a tough, durable finish that can be used anywhere in the home.

laminate is more scratch-resistant than any wood floor — but once it does scratch, the damage is permanent

laminate can be a good choice in laundry rooms or bathrooms

laminate flooring contains no actual wood

An edge glue Laminate is 3 times more resistant to pulling apart than a quick lock laminate.

There are two basic types of laminate flooring: direct-pressure laminate (DPL) and high-pressure laminate (HPL)

HPL is a commercial-grade product that's more wear-resistant and more expensive than DPL

One advantage DPL has, besides price, is that its manufacturing process allows surface embossing, which can be used to give the product a realistic wood, ceramic, or stone texture

The best quality, which is really a commercial-grade product, is 10 millimeters (13/32 inch) thick

a softer core material, such as medium-density fiberboard (MDF) rather than HDF is more vulnerable to both impact damage and indentation from heavy furniture.

All floors move with seasonal changes in temperature and humidity, if you have heavy furniture, there is a chance that a glueless floor will develop gaps. Each carrier may vary with different dimensions, but here is a typical container size info from liquidators.tv 20' = 1,168 cu ft 40' = 2,395 cu ft 40' HC = 2,700 cu ft To convert to cubic meters (m3), multiply by 0.028317. liquidators.tv Metric Conversions  from the experts at www.liquidators.tv Quick Conversions: Inches x 25.4 = Millimeters Millimeters x .03937 = Inches Feet x .3048 = Meters Meters x 3.28 = Feet Cubic Feet x .02832 = Cubic Meters Cubic Meters x 35.314 = Cubic Feet   if you know and want to find multiply by Inches Millimeters 25.4 Inches Centimeters 2.54 Millmeters Inches .03937 Centimeters Inches .3937 Feet Meters 3.280 MBF, Full Sawn* Cubic Meters 2.36 Cubic Meters MBF, Full Sawn* .424 MBF, Scribner Log Scale Cubic Meters 4.52 Cubic Meters MBF, Scribners .221 MSF 3/8" Basis Cubic Meters .885 Cubic Meters MSF, 3/8" Basis 1.13 Acres Hectares .4047 Hectares Acres 2.4711 * Nominal sawn lumber is usually converted to cubic measure by the same factors.  here are approx. 638 board feet of nominal sized lumber in a cubic meter, making the mathematically correct conversion factors 1.57 and .638 inch to millimeter conversion by liquidators.tv inches mm 1/32 0.8 1/16 1.6 3/32 2.4 1/8 3.2 5/32 4.0 3/16 4.8 inches mm 1/4 6.4 5/16 7.9 3/8 9.5 7/16 11.1 1/2 12.7 9/16 14.3 inches mm 5/8 15.9 11/16 17.5 3/4 19.1 13/16 20.6 7/8 22.2 15/16 23.8 inches mm 1 25.4 1-1/8 28.6 1-1/4 38.1 1-1/2 20.6 1-3/4 44.5 2 50.8 inches mm 2-1/4 57.2 2-1/2 63.5 3 76.2 4 101.6 5 127.0 6 152.4               Quick Formulas  from the experts at www.liquidators.tv If lumber is full sawn, or volume is computed on actual sizes, multiply the board footage expressed in thousands of board feet (MBF) by 2.358 to find cubic meters MBF x 2.358 = M3 If lumber volume is based upon nominal sizes, divide the actual cross section (thickness x width) by the nominal cross section (thickness x width), then multiply by 2.358.  Multiply the total board footage (MBF) by this figure to find the total cubic meters. Actual Cross Section / Nominal Cross section x 2.358 x MBF = M3 If the lumber is trimmed to a specified length, but billed on even foot basis, as in precision end-trimmed studs, then account for this difference by multiplying the total cubic meters by an additional factor.  To find this factor, divide the actual trim length by the nominal lengh, then multiply the total cubic meters by this number. Actual Trim Length / Nominal Length x M3 = Total M3 inch to millimeter conversion by  liquidators.tv inches mm 1/32 0.8 1/16 1.6 3/32 2.4 1/8 3.2 5/32 4.0 3/16 4.8 inches mm 1/4 6.4 5/16 7.9 3/8 9.5 7/16 11.1 1/2 12.7 9/16 14.3 inches mm 5/8 15.9 11/16 17.5 3/4 19.1 13/16 20.6 7/8 22.2 15/16 23.8 inches mm 1 25.4 1-1/8 28.6 1-1/4 38.1 1-1/2 20.6 1-3/4 44.5 2 50.8 inches mm 2-1/4 57.2 2-1/2 63.5 3 76.2 4 101.6 5 127.0 6 152.4             Hardwood Floors .vs. Laminate   from the experts at www.liquidators.tv A general comparison between prefinished hardwood floors and laminate floors may help you to better understand the characteristics between these types of floors.   Catagory Hardwood Prefinished Laminate Flooring Visual Appearance excellent good Scratch Resistance fair - good very good Stain Resistance fair excellent Fade Resistance fair excellent Impact Resistance good excellent Ease of Maintenance good very good Moisture Resistance poor - fair fair Ease of Repair good fair Can floor be refinished? yes no Install over concrete slabs some yes Manufacturer's Warranty good good Life expectancy of floor (in years) 25 - 100+ < 20   Installing Wood Floors over Radiant Heat all info from the experts at www.liquidators.tv Radiant heating is a growing source of heating in North America, both in residential and commercial installations. Consequently, it's important for installers to understand how radiant heating works with hardwood flooring installations. Radiant heating does not heat air directly as do more conventional forms of heating, such as baseboard convectors or forced air circulation. Radiant heat is "omni-directional." Unlike warm air, which tends to rise, radiant energy tends to travel in all directions. A large area of mild surface temperatures, such as a warm floor, is capable of transferring as much heat as a small surface area, such as a steam radiator, at high surface temperatures. Radiant heat beneath wood flooring involves tubing in concrete, or tubing under plywood subfloors. How Radiant Heat Works The most important factor in a successful wood flooring installation over radiant heat is a dry slab and a dry subfloor. The only sure way to dry a slab and subfloor system is to turn on the radiant heating system before installing the wood flooring. If this isn't done, moisture left in the slab will enter the wood flooring as soon as the heat is turned on. The result is floors that will expand, contract, shrink, crack, cup and bow excessively. If the heat can't be turned on, then everyone involved-down to the homeowner-should understand and accept the compromises that will appear down the road. Opinions on the amount of time required vary widely. Some say the heating system should be turned on at least 72 hours before installation, with a preferred time of five to six days. That assumes that the slab has been in place for at least 60 days. If the slab is relatively new, the recommendation is to have the heating system turned on for 30 to 60 days before installing wood floors. As always, follow the recommendations of your wood flooring manufacturer. Wood dries rapidly when the heat is first turned on. It dries to a lower moisture content toward the end of the heating season. When the radiant heat is turned off, moisture once again starts to seep into the wood subfloor and radiant slab. Abruptly turning on the radiant heat in the fall will subject wood flooring to rapid and easily noticed movement: Evidence of this movement will be cupping or crowning of the boards. Finally, shrinkage cracks will appear between individual floor boards. Alternatively, gradually turning the heat on before the first really cool day will begin the seasonal movement more gradually. Thus, the movement of the floor will be much less noticeable. As always, humidity controls can help offset flooring expansion and contraction. Radiant heating systems are currently designed to run cooler than they did years ago, although water supplied to the systems generally range from 90 degrees to 140 degrees. In years past, when water temperatures exceeded 140 degrees, wood fibers were repeatedly traumatized, causing stress fractures, gaps and twisting. Repeated heating and cooling also broke down the adhesive that bonded the hardwood to the slab. But today, a set of thermostat controls can help avoid those problems. It is recommended to have three thermostats-one to control the tubing water supply temperature; one to control the room temperature with different zone controls; and one for outside the house. This three-thermostat system is kindest to wood flooring, because it moderates the floor temperature. People tend to crank up the heat when they're cold, but with three thermostats, the system adapts itself to conditions both inside and out. The outside thermostat gears up the system for the arrival of colder weather, and a thermostat adjusting the control water temperature on the tubing will keep the temperature at the homeowner's comfort level. RADIANT HEAT INSTALLATIONS With radiant heat, the heat source is directly beneath the flooring, so the flooring may gain moisture or dry out faster than a similar floor in a home with a conventional heating system. Wood flooring can be installed over radiant heat as long as you understand radiant heat and how it can impact wood flooring, what precautions to take, and what type of wood flooring to use. GENERAL RADIANT HEAT INSTALLATION GUIDELINES To minimize the effect that rapid changes in temperature will have on the floor, it is recommended that an outside thermostat be installed. If one is not present, suggest to your customer that this should be considered. Unlike conventional heating systems whereby when it becomes cold, the heat is switched on, the radiant systems work most effectively and with less trauma to the wood floor if the heating process is gradual, based on small increment increases in relation to the outside temperature. Subfloor should have proper moisture test according to standards in the trade. A 6-8 mil polyethylene vapor barrier should be installed over slab radiant heat systems. Tape all seams to be sure the barrier is tight. To protect the barrier from rips, some contractors lay 1/16" (1.5625mm) thick foam sheeting over the vapor barrier. When the slab has cured, turn the heat on regardless of the season and leave it on for at least 5-6 days before installation of the wood flooring. The following installation systems can be used successfully over radiant heat:all info from the experts at www.liquidators.tv 1. Glue down 2. Direct nail to subfloor 3. T & G direct nail to sleepers 4. Single layer of plywood on sleepers 5. Double plywood floating 6. Floating solid/clip 7. Floating engineered/laminated GLUE DOWN ENGINEERED/LAMINATED OR PARQUET (Limited borders, height can be kept to a minimum, can get some movement on solid slab) -Glue laminated flooring -Install over approved sub-floor- Engineered/Laminated Unfinished/Prefinished/impregnated. -Can be glued direct to approved subfloor. Glue direct is not recommended on lightweight slab (less than 3,000 psi). -The heating system has to be turned off before gluing. -Use adhesive approved by the wood manufacturer. -Maximum surface temperature - 85 degrees F (29.44 degrees C). -Expect some heating season separations. DIRECT NAIL TO SUB-FLOOR TYPE 1 -Heating tubes are stapled to the underside of the wood sub-floor, between the floor joists. Must have an NWFA approved sub-floor for wood flooring. -Solid wood must be properly acclimated. -Be sure nails are not so long as to penetrate the tubing. -All other installation procedures are the same , Strip-Unfinished/ Prefinished - Solid. TYPE 2 -A sandwich system, the pipes are laid between sleepers over an existing wood sub-floor. A new wood sub-floor is then nailed to the sleepers. -Must have an approved NWFA sub-floor for wood flooring. -Solid wood must be properly acclimated. -Be sure nails are not so long as to penetrate the tubing. -All other installation procedures are the same ,Strip - Unfinished/ Prefinished - Solid all info from the experts at www.liquidators.tv T & G DIRECT NAIL TO SLEEPERS -Must choose direction before sleepers are installed. -Sleepers should be 2X4' or 2X3', Group 1 density pressure treated kiln dried lumber, 12'(300mm) on center. -Use 2 ?" (56.25mm) widths or less for solid wood flooring. -Solid wood must be property acclimated. -Cannot use shorts.(18" or less pieces) -Expect some heating season separations -All other installation procedures are the same , Strip -Unfinished/ Prefinished - Solid. all info from the experts at www.liquidators.tv SINGLE LAYER OF PLYWOOD ON SLEEPERS (Allows for borders with T & G, increases 'R' factor, raises finished floor height, makes nailing easier, can use shorter hardwood lengths) -Sleepers will be embedded in concrete with only tops showing. -Install approved vapor barrier (6-8 mil polyfilm). -Fasten plywood to sleepers according to NWFA guidelines , Strip Unfinished/Prefinished - Solid. -Creates a more level surface. -Expect some heating season separations. DOUBLE PLYWOOD LAYER FLOATING WITH T & G (High 'R' value, can use borders, makes nailing easier, can use shorter hardwood lengths) -Sleepers are unnecessary. -Use NWFA approved subfloor guidelines for, Strip Unfinished/Prefinished - Solid. -Solid wood must be acclimated according to NWFA guidelines , Strip - Unfinished/Prefinished - Solid. FLOATING SOLID WITH CLIPS (Easy to install, more expensive, short stave construction, solid floating, easy to remove e.g. leased rental space, slight noise reduction) -Expansion and contraction is noticeable . -Multi butt ends join together. -Use an adhesive approved by the wood manufacturer for joints. FLOATING ENGINEERED/LAMINATED (Easy to install, comes prefinished and unfinished, limits finished height, slight noise reduction, "R' value increases) - Limits expansion and contraction. -No cracking when slab cracks. -Multi butt ends join together. -Use an adhesive approved by the wood manufacturer for joints. Subfloor should be according to manufacturers recommendation , Engineered/Laminated -Unfinished/Prefinished/impregnated.  inch to millimeter conversion  from the experts at www.liquidators.tv   inches millimeters 1/32 0.8 1/16 1.6 3/32 2.4 1/8 3.2 5/32 4.0 3/16 4.8 inches millimeters 1/4 6.4 5/16 7.9 3/8 9.5 7/16 11.1 1/2 12.7 9/16 14.3 inches millimeters 5/8 15.9 11/16 17.5 3/4 19.1 13/16 20.6 7/8 22.2 15/16 23.8 inches millimeters 1 25.4 1-1/8 28.6 1-1/4 38.1 1-1/2 20.6 1-3/4 44.5 2 50.8 inches millimeters 2-1/4 57.2 2-1/2 63.5 3 76.2 4 101.6 5 127.0 6 152.4                   FRACTION TO DECIMAL REFERENCE TABLE Fraction Decimal Fraction Decimal Fraction Decimal Fraction Decimal 1/64 .0156 17/64 .2656 33/64 .5156 49/64 .7656 1/32 .0313 9/32 .2813 17/32 .5313 25/32 .7813 3/64 .0469 19/64 .2969 35/64 .5469 51/64 .7969 1/16 .0625 5/16 .3125 9/16 .5625 13/16 .8125 5/84 .0781 21/64 .3281 37/64 .5781 53/64 .8281 3/32 .0938 11/32 .3438 19/32 .5938 27/32 .8438 7/64 .1094 23/64 .3594 39/64 .6094 55/64 .8594 1/8 .125 3/8 .375 5/8 .625 7/8 .875 9/64 .1406 25/64 .3906 41/64 .6406 57/64 .8906 5/32 .1563 13/32 .4063 21/32 .6563 29/32 .9063 11/84 .1719 27/64 .4219 43/64 .6719 59/64 .9219 3/16 .1875 7/16 .4375 11/16 .6875 15/16 .9375 13/64 .2031 29/64 .4531 45/64 .7031 61/64 .9531 7/32 .2188 15/32 .4688 23/32 .7188 31/32 .9688 15/64 .2344 31/64 .4844 47/64 .7344 63/64 .9844 1/4 .250 1/2 .500 3/4 .750 1.0 1.00     Selecting the laminate flooring  from the experts at www.liquidators.tv Unlike hardwood, laminate floors will not stain, fade, dent and are far more scratch and water resistant. Warranties range from 10 years to lifetime and cover such factors as mentioned above. Entry level laminate wood flooring is designed for light traffic areas and come with warranties ranging from 10 to 15 years. Most people set their expectations too high and expect that entry level floors will perform under heavy traffic conditions and still look good for the duration of the warranty. This is however not the case, as an entry level floor subject to high traffic will start to show wear and tear within three to five years. come with cores ranging from 6mm up to 12mm. A thicker core is more stable, less vulnerable to buckling and will sound more like real hardwood when walked on. Good quality cores are treated with water repellent chemicals, and resist swelling due to excessive moisture. This is very important especially when considering placing laminate wood flooring in bathrooms and kitchen. For these applications also consider a floor that has Paraffin wax impregnated joints. The Paraffin wax acts as a water repellent and will prevent topical water spills from penetrating down to the core. Also remember to scrutinize the warranty, as certain products are not covered for use in bathrooms and kitchens. Buying the floors that suits your needs will save you money in the long run. This is not to say that every home requires a high end floor with an extensive warranty. Consider the amount of traffic as well as the amount of time you intend staying in your current home. There is no point in purchasing an expensive floor with an extended warranty if you plan on moving in the near future. Remember, the floor is usually the first thing replaced by people when moving to a new home. Laminate wood flooring offers the best combination of quality and value in a wide range of colors, styles and designs and are also engineered engineered for exceptional strength and durability and will last for years and years. For a rich and long-lasting experience, at a home friendly price, choose l-a-m-i-n-a-t-e; it's a natural look for your home and for the way you want to live. Laminate wood floors history Since their introduction into the US in 1982, the sector has experienced growth of up to 20% per annum at the expense of other floor types, making laminate the fastest growing floor type in the country. The appeal lies not only in its aesthetic value of its representation of real hardwood, but also due to its incredible durability and ease of maintenance. The traditional look of hardwood is timeless; its beauty has brought a sense of comfort and elegance to homes around the world for many generations. Hardwood floors are however pricey, not very durable and require a fair amount of routine maintenance and care. Even the most recent technological advancements in surface treatment have not been able to solve such problems as scratching, fading, denting and staining. This has lead to the invention of laminate wood floors. With its machine made construction and hardwood photographic laminated surface, this floor is the perfect solution for the look and appeal of real hardwood that is more durable and requires less REPAIRING LAMINATE FLOORS     Laminate flooring is built for today’s active lifestyle. The HDF laminate core is both water resistant and dimensionally stable and the laminated surface is treated with Aluminum Oxide, adding strength and a high degree of scratch resistance. Laminate warranties cover fading, denting, staining and manufacturers defects, they do not however cover normal day to day wear and tear. Although very durable, it is normal to find minor scratches as result of daily wear and tear. Fortunately, this situation is easily remedied with the aid of a laminate floor repair kit, available from the laminate manufacturer. These repair kits may include acrylic or latex putty, wax pencils or crayons and are color coded to match the floor. In the event that your color or style of flooring has been discontinued, you can purchase a generic kit from your local hardware store. Always take a plank of flooring with you, in order to select the correct color. For more serious damage, it might be necessary to replace the damaged boards. The introduction of glueless laminate flooring has resulted in a floor that is both easy to install and repair. To replace boards that are situated close to walls or moldings, follow these steps: 1. Start by removing the baseboard or molding. Be sure to do this carefully as not to damage the molding, as it is replaced in the final step. 2. Remove the boards starting from the molding until the damaged board is accessible. 3. Replace the damaged board and then the rest of the boards you removed, by clicking them back in place. 4. Replace the molding. The process of repairing a laminate floor board that is closer to the center of the room is more detailed and time consuming. The process involves removing the damaged board utilizing a saw or router, then replacing the board utilizing a sufficient water resistant adhesive. Follow these steps. 1) Mark the damaged board 1-1/2” from ends and side. Drill 3/16” holes at corners of marked area. 2) Cut along lines between the drilled holes and remove the center section. Then cut remaining piece in the center on both sides and remove. 3) Prepare a replacement board by cutting and removing the factory tongue along the long and short end of the board. The figure below represents the two types of locking systems available. 4) Apply adhesive to the cut edges and replace the board by aligning the groove on the replacement board with the tongue of the abutting board, and snap back into place. 5) Make sure all edges are even on either side of the joints. Utilize a heavy object to apply pressure for at least 24 hours. Make sure the weight is evenly distributed across the new piece. Prevention is better than cure. Place floor mats at door entrances inorder to reduce the amount of sand tracked into the house. It is a good idea to place felt pads under furniture legs as this wil lprevent scratching caused by dragging the furniture across the floor. Also keep large pets' nails groomed. LAMINATE FLOOR REPAIR- COMMON ISSUES from the experts at www.liquidators.tv     Peaking Peaking refers to a situation in which the laminate floor boards push up against each other and result in high points at the joints. There are a number of reasons why this can happen. The most common cause of peaking is a lack of expansion space between the laminate floor and the walls around the perimeter of the installation, or a lack of expansion space between the laminate floor and laminate moldings. This situation is easily remedied. Simply follow the peaking board’s perpendicular to the wall or molding, remove the necessary molding- if against the wall, remove the baseboard and cut the laminate board that meets the wall or molding, thus giving the floor more space to expand. The peaking will not however dissipate immediately, it is necessary to place a weighted object on the peaking areas. Another reason for peaking could be due to the fact that the moldings in the doorways or around the perimeter of the room have been fixed to the floor, thus preventing the floor from expanding. Remember that a laminate floor is a floating floor and must not be fixed to the sub floor or moldings at any point as this will not allow the floor to expand and contract, as these floors naturally do. Peaking can also arise due to the fact that a continuous area of flooring is too long in one direction without an expansion joint to relieve the pressure. This will generally happen in areas where the floor runs for over 40 foot – this number differs per manufacturer. Check the manufacturers recommendations if you feel that your area is very large in one direction. Buckling or warping Buckling or warping is almost always as a result of moisture and/ or water damage. Laminate flooring is affected by water in a number of ways. High moisture content in the air can sometimes lead to buckling or warping.for more info log in to www.liquidators.tv Excessive water on the surface of the floor can also lead to buckling or warping. For this reason it is important never to wet mop a laminate floor. The most common cause of warping or buckling is water or dampness rising from the subfloor in conjunction with the lack of a sufficient moisture barrier. Buckling or warping can also be as a result of an inferior product construction. Laminate floor surfaces are laminated under extremely high pressure. For this reason, it is necceasry to have a pressure balancing layer on the bottom of the boards. This layer is made up of a rigid material and equalzes the pressure that is exerted form above. Gapping Gapping is not very common with laminate flooring. Gapping is a situation in which the laminate flooring boards tend to pull away from one another resulting in gaps between the boards. This situation will occur if the temperature drops to a point way below what is considered normal. For this reason it is very important to always acclimatize your flooring to the room temperature and conditions of the room in which the laminate is to be installed. Mold and mildew Issues concerning mold and mildew are gaining increased attention from both residential and commercial property owners as well as the public at large. In virtually all situations if there is a mold issue, there is an excessive moisture issue. In order to prevent, control, or erradicate mold and mildew, one must first identify, evaluate, and eliminate the source of excessive moisture. Prior to removing an existing flooring or installing a new floor or repairing an existing laminate floor, if there are visible indications of mold or mildew or the presence of a strong musty odor in the area where flooring is to be removed or installed, the source of the problem should be identified and corrected. To deal with mold and mildew issues, you should refer to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guidelines that address mold and mildew. Depending on the mold and mildew condition present, those remediation options range from clean-up measures using gloves and biocide to hiring a professional mold and mildew remediation contractor to address the condition. Laminate flooring, because it is relatively non-porous, allow any mold and mildew on the flooring surface to be easily cleaned. Remediation measures may require structural repairs such as replacing underlayment and/or subfloor contaminated with mold or mildew as a result of prolonged exposure to moisture. The EPA mold guidelines are contained in two publications “A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home” (EPA 402-K-02-003) and “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings ”(EPA 402-K-01-001). Appendix B of the “Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings” publication describes potential health effects form exposure to mold, such as allergic and asthma reactions and irritation to eyes, skin, nose and throat. Off register Off register is a situation in which the flooring pattern on one flooring board does not match up the pattern on the connecting board. Note however that manufacturers do allow for a small variance. This situation however almost never occurs, and in the event it does you can claim based on manufacturing defect.for mor info go to www.liquidators.tv . Expanding High Density Fiber Board (HDF) The core (middle section) of a laminate floor plank is made from HDF. HDF subjected to water, will swell and fall apart. Most laminate cores however are treated with water repellent chemicals. You might find that your laminate floors feel soft and squishy (for lack of a better term) when you walk on them. This is probably the result of a water soaked core. If this situation arises, your only remedy is to replace the affected boards. Chipped corners Excessive chipping on corners can be as a result of any of the following: a) Wrong method of installation used. A laminate floor utilizing the click mechanism of installation does not require a tapping block or mallet for installation, the boards simply click together. Using a tapping block and mallet to install this type of floor will result in marks, indentations and chipping. b) Cleaning the floor with a vacuum cleaner that contains a beater